But back to those fabulous pants now. I decided to make a wearable muslin first using Vogue 8909. I chose View B because of the elastic leg bands and slightly cropped look. My plan was to make a wearable muslin first, using some cheap chambray fabric I found online.
I chose a size M based on my measurements, but I am slowly learning that when I make unfitted or knit garments, I really need to choose a size below my measurements or the item turns out way too big, as I found out with these pants. So, I ditched the ankle bands and relegated these delights to my pyjama drawer! They are ever so comfy but a little too baggy as you can see in the photos. They were also a little too short for the pants I had in mind.
This particular fitting mishap did teach me a few things though. After fiddling a lot in front of the mirror, I estimated that I needed to lift the crotch seam by about 1cm and take the sides in by about an inch each. This was basically the same as going down a size, so I chose this option instead and it worked out a treat.
This was my first time working with leather, and perhaps that was also part of the reason why I was so excited about making these pants. I purchased the leather lambskin from Tandy as this was the same leather used by Nikki for her pants. I know I could have found a similar product in Australia, but given this was my first leather project and I had no idea what texture, feel, look, or weight I was looking for, the shipping expense was well worth it for the education.
I chose to interface every single piece in the pattern. I attended a lecture on interfacing a while back and recalled the speaker saying all leather should be interfaced. I ummed and aahed over this for a long while, because the leather was just divine as it was and I really didn't want to change it's hand at all. In the end, my fear of a baggy bottom and knees won out and I chose to interface it with the lightest possible knit fusible I could find. It seemed to stick well and didn't affect the feel of this gorgeous lambskin too much, if at all.
I partially lined the pants with rayon lining fabric. I also added an extra two inches in length for version B and added a seam in the front legs and an extra two seams in the back legs. (The extra seam in the back legs was purely an accident after I attached one to the waist seam by mistake and had to trim and re-cut pieces to solve the problem!) For each seam, I opened it up and edgestitched both sides before trimming. This worked beautifully in keeping the seams flat and neat.
The most difficult thing about this project was inserting the elastic into the casings. In hindsight, I should have increased the casing sizes a bit in the waistband because I forgot to account for the fact that leather is a thicker material. I actually had to pause this project overnight because my poor fingers and hands were hurting so badly. But I have to say, the end result is well worth it.
Would I sew with leather again after this? Absolutely! I have to admit, it isn't my favourite material to sew with. I much prefer fabrics, but I am still so pleased to have expanded my skills.
Those pants are just the best!! I am so covetting them - even though it is so hot here as well!
ReplyDeleteThank you! I love them! ;-)
ReplyDeleteAmazing! These look fantastic, and I love your style!
ReplyDeleteThank you Gail!
DeleteNice post love reading it
ReplyDeletebikers jackets for women
Leather Jackets
These look great, as do all of your makes! How many hides did you use?
ReplyDeleteThanks Julie! I think I used three hides.
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